艺术学院知识库

摘  要

礼服是人们出席重要场合的首选服装类型，在不同时代背景下，着装特点在一定程度反映了该时代的礼仪服饰文化，承载了大量有关文化符号、个人形象甚至国家形象表达的信息。中国传统文化元素具有深厚的文化底蕴和广阔的再创造空间，是设计师取之不尽的创意源泉。当代礼服设计体现国际流行趋势的同时依然继承着传统样式与文化，展现独特而深厚的礼仪服装魅力，分析当代礼服设计作品在当今服装人文化、多元化发展的时代背景下，如何打破固有化设计思维，寻求形式多元性变得尤为重要。进而从当代礼服设计实践中探究如何将传统文化元素应用在当代礼服设计中的方法，可以为未来设计实践提供新思路。

首先，从系统观的角度分析礼服设计案例，从传统服装款式、传统吉祥纹样、传统工艺技法以及传统色彩观念的应用四个方面展开论述，以期获得中国传统文化元素在当代礼服设计中的价值体现。其次，基于前期应用现状的研究成果，得出当代礼服设计中应用传统文化元素不再是简单挪用单一文化元素，通常表现为以多种元素融合创新的手法，总体特征归纳为应用元素创新方式逐渐丰富，文化内涵日益凸显。最后，探究传统文化元素在当代礼服设计中的应用趋向，应该以时代发展为背景，在符合大众物质需求、精神文化的基础上传承与创新中国文化。传承传统文化元素，不仅仅是将其视作符号，更需要我们深刻理解传统元素的背景和文化内涵，没有文化的设计经不起历史的考验，所以挖掘中国传统文化元素，只有从民族文化中汲取精神食粮，将人文情怀和价值观寄托在礼服设计中，才能在礼服设计中广泛推广和运用传统文化元素。

关键词：当代礼服 传统 文化元素 设计方法

Abstract

Formal dress is the preferred type of clothing for people to attend important occasions, and in the context of different eras, the characteristics of dress reflect the ceremonial clothing culture of the era to a certain extent, carrying a large amount of information about cultural symbols, personal images and even national image expressions. Traditional Chinese cultural elements have a profound cultural heritage and broad space for recreation, which is an inexhaustible source of creativity for designers. Contemporary formal dress design reflects the international fashion trend while still inheriting traditional styles and culture, showing the unique and profound charm of ceremonial clothing, analyzing contemporary full dress design works in the context of today's era of clothing culture and diversified development, how to break the inherent design thinking and seek form diversity has become particularly important. Then, from the contemporary formal dress design practice, we explore how to apply traditional cultural elements to contemporary full dress design, which can provide new ideas for future design practice.

Firstly, the formal dress design cases are analyzed from the perspective of system, and discussed from four aspects: traditional clothing styles, traditional auspicious patterns, traditional craft techniques and the application of traditional color concepts, in order to obtain the value of traditional Chinese cultural elements in contemporary dress design. Secondly, based on the research results of the previous application status, it is concluded that the application of traditional cultural elements in contemporary dress design is no longer simply appropriated from a single cultural element, but usually manifested as the fusion and innovation of multiple elements, and the overall characteristics are summarized as the application element innovation method is gradually enriched, and the cultural connotation is increasingly prominent. Finally, to explore the application trend of traditional cultural elements in contemporary formal dress design, we should inherit and innovate Chinese culture on the basis of meeting the material needs and spiritual culture of the public in the context of the development of the times. Inheriting traditional cultural elements, not only as symbols, but also requires us to deeply understand the background and cultural connotation of traditional elements, the design without culture can not withstand the test of history, so to excavate Chinese traditional cultural elements, only from the national culture to draw spiritual food, humanistic feelings and values in the dress design, in order to widely promote and use traditional cultural elements in dress design.

Keywords：Contemporary formal dresses;Tradition;Cultural elements;Design methodology